The climb starts off with 10 metres of V5 [6c+], then 10 metres of V6 [7a], then 10 metres of V9 [7c] then another ten of V9 [7c], followed a final ten of V8 [7b]. Nothing even remotely hard in individual sections, but add all that together you need a lot of stamina and excellent pacing and timing to save your strength for the right moment at the end. It reminds me of running 1500 metre events actually. Hold back, holding back until you hit the crux at the end and pulling down through melting arms. Dave Macleod, Sept 13th 2008.
Below: Dave Macleod on Big Long Now Font8b+(?) © Dave Macleod
Further south at the ever in vogue Dumbarton Rocks, Malcolm Smith put his mega guns to work climbing yet anther stomach churning epic: Gut Buster weighs in at 8b+ and meanders thus...
Start as for Serum of Sisyphus, make hard moves to join Perfect Crime and follow this to an ab sapping knee bar rest in the niche. Continue up Sanction then wander up the easy arete to the top of the boulder. Breaks new ground in Scottish bouldering. Scottishclimbs.com
Sources: Scottishclimbs.com and davemacleod.blogspot.com
