Dan Warren has climbed a tough new problem at Fossil Wall, in the Peak. His new line climbs Lost Sequence from a sit start to the pocket, before breaking right along the obvious traverse line, and finishing up Schadenfreude, to give Lost In Translation (8a).
For more details on the climbing on Fossil Wall there is a topo here.
Monday, 9 June 2008
Lake District Area: Good Things Come in 3's
We have a few noteworthy ascents to report from the last couple of weeks. First up is the most recent send, from this weekend in fact.
Nick Clement has climbed the obvious, but until now neglected, reverse of the original Woodwell power stamina link, Cloning Technology. Nicks new creation, as anyone familiar with the crag will be aware, starts at the far right hand end of the crag and tackles the first section of Tom's Traverse Reverse, before swinging down through the roof to the start of Screaming Slave. It now traverses crab-like to the start of What's This For...! and climbs this to the jug a 2/3's height, then reverses Crucifix Kiss before continuing leftward along the break to the holds above the The Beauty of Being Numb. As with Cloning Technology holds above the main lip of the buttress are out-of-bounds, so if you comply with all the above stipulations on a send of the line you can take a tick of Nuclear Transplant (8a+).
Below: Nick Clement on his new creation Nuclear Transplant Font8a+ © Nick Clement
Just round the corner in Trowbarrow Quarry I managed to link the obvious low sit start (from down to the left) into Neil Kershaw's splendiferous line, Virtruvian Man. The new line gives the whole package of crimpball, tensionball, dynoball and even highball to leave us with Iron Man (8a).
For the more mountain orientated boulderer I also managed (eventually) my project up at Sampson's Stones in upper Eskdale. Hypernova (8a) starts up Pulsar before breaking off leftward across the face initially on good handholds but sparse footholds to a tricky drop down, at the halfway point, into the lower holds of Quasar. It now continues left into and up the hardest "straight-up" on the block, Stargazer (7c in its own right) - one for the super keen!
Below: Coming into the crux section (and last few moves) of Hypernova, Sampson's Stones.
Source: LakesBloc.co.uk
Nick Clement has climbed the obvious, but until now neglected, reverse of the original Woodwell power stamina link, Cloning Technology. Nicks new creation, as anyone familiar with the crag will be aware, starts at the far right hand end of the crag and tackles the first section of Tom's Traverse Reverse, before swinging down through the roof to the start of Screaming Slave. It now traverses crab-like to the start of What's This For...! and climbs this to the jug a 2/3's height, then reverses Crucifix Kiss before continuing leftward along the break to the holds above the The Beauty of Being Numb. As with Cloning Technology holds above the main lip of the buttress are out-of-bounds, so if you comply with all the above stipulations on a send of the line you can take a tick of Nuclear Transplant (8a+).
Below: Nick Clement on his new creation Nuclear Transplant Font8a+ © Nick Clement
Just round the corner in Trowbarrow Quarry I managed to link the obvious low sit start (from down to the left) into Neil Kershaw's splendiferous line, Virtruvian Man. The new line gives the whole package of crimpball, tensionball, dynoball and even highball to leave us with Iron Man (8a).
For the more mountain orientated boulderer I also managed (eventually) my project up at Sampson's Stones in upper Eskdale. Hypernova (8a) starts up Pulsar before breaking off leftward across the face initially on good handholds but sparse footholds to a tricky drop down, at the halfway point, into the lower holds of Quasar. It now continues left into and up the hardest "straight-up" on the block, Stargazer (7c in its own right) - one for the super keen!
Below: Coming into the crux section (and last few moves) of Hypernova, Sampson's Stones.
Source: LakesBloc.co.uk
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
