Peak District : Metal Slug 8a+

In the relatively recently developed "Tube", Dan Warren has climbed a cool addition through one of the various steep roof lines to give Metal Slug, 8a+.

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Source: UKBouldering.com

Wales: Dyer is Smokin' - Silk Cut

Neil Dyer has completed a major link in Parisella’s Cave, North Wales. Silk Cut (8b+/V14) extends Director’s Cut (hard 8b) into the obvious highball exit of Upper Cut (7b/+). The previous night (before his send) Neil climbed through Director’s Cut only for a foot to pop as he moved into the highball finish. This in itself constituted the fourth ascent of Director’s Cut (after Jamie Cassidy, Malcolm Smith and Gaz Parry), but the logical top out remained as Neil’s original goal, one which he had been eyeing for a long time.

Below: Neil Dyer on his new problem Silk Cut Font8b+ © Simon Panton


Source: NorthWalesBouldering.com

Northumberland: Earl's New Shaftoe 8a

Andy Earl returned from a European road trip last week with a tip off that the Roadside Wall at Shaftoe had a sit start that might just go. It was no easy send though, Andy's bad skin from his trip combined with the sharp holds on the line made for much tearing before he completed the problem in his third session. Andy is offering 8a for this cracking bit of climbing on possibly Shaftoe's most picturesque boulder.

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Source: NorthumberlandBouldering.com

Wales: Robins Sends Another Great Link

Pete Robbins has linked In Life into Left Wall High in Parisellas Cave to give a 40 move hard 8a+/French 8c link. There is now an easier sequence to the In Hell start now knocking In Hell and In Life down to soft 8a+'s. We believe Pete has christened his new link up In Heaven.

Source: UKBouldering.com and Chris Doyle

Lake District Area: E-Fix 8a

I have added a smart new addition to Plum Buttress at Warton Pinnacle Crag in the South Lakes. This new line tackles the roof to the right of the John Gaskins classic Voodoo People. E-Fix (8a) Starts from sitting on the forward most block, then pull on via a slot and an obvious square undercut pinch (RH), deploy a marginal heel-toe out left and bounce up and left (LH) for the right end of an edgey slot. Now make a hard and accurate slap for a poor hold on the lip. If successful engage some keen tension and foot jiggery pokery to gain a pinchy edge on the lip out right and join Sugarfix to finish.


Source: LakesBloc.co.uk