Andy Swann and Dave Cowl have been busy finding and developing some new blocs and traverses at the outlying areas of Brimham. As well as establishing a number 0f mid to high 7-graded problems Andy has climbed a new 8a entitled Vogue. This is situated in the vicinity of Maud's Farm somewhere (Bat Buttress?) and climbs the "obvious" clean, south-facing wall. Start in centre of wall at good a crimpy seam and head right to sloper cluster, and right again to a sloper just below top, from here gain the break above.
Source: Yorkshiregrit.com
Monday, 31 March 2008
Wednesday, 19 March 2008
Yorkshire: Hunter's Stones - Big Numbers
The recently developed Hunter's Stones in North Yorkshire (a stones throw from Almscliff!) have yielded a number of excellent new lines - 20 plus lines of 3 to 8a+ - over the last few months, although up until now the new additions have been kept under wraps to allow the primemover, Tom Peckitt, to finish what he started and mop up all the remaining hard lines. The area is the subject of this months (April) Climber magazine's Stone Circles article. The article is worth picking up as it features some great action shots as well as full location and problem details.
Below: Tom Peckitt on one of his new problems Hunter's Roof Font7c+ © Hannah Madden
Of the biggest numbers to fall X-Calibre SDS (8a) and its right-hand variant (8a+) are the hardest propositions. The original line climbs the centre of the wall starting on parallel crimps on the low break, going up left to an x-shaped hold, then up left again to crimps below the top. The right-hand variation is an obvious but focussed line which gains the x-hold in the left hand (rather than the right) and then dynos to the top of the block at its highest point.
Below: The lines of X-Calibre and its harder variation are shown
For info and photo's on Hunter's Stones see Yorkshiregrit.com
Below: Tom Peckitt on one of his new problems Hunter's Roof Font7c+ © Hannah Madden
Of the biggest numbers to fall X-Calibre SDS (8a) and its right-hand variant (8a+) are the hardest propositions. The original line climbs the centre of the wall starting on parallel crimps on the low break, going up left to an x-shaped hold, then up left again to crimps below the top. The right-hand variation is an obvious but focussed line which gains the x-hold in the left hand (rather than the right) and then dynos to the top of the block at its highest point.
Below: The lines of X-Calibre and its harder variation are shown
For info and photo's on Hunter's Stones see Yorkshiregrit.com
Monday, 10 March 2008
Scotland: Deep Breath 8a
This report is actually from back in October 2007. A fine looking new problem from Dave Macleod at Glen Nevis...
"I had a lovely day climbing with Ruaridh and Ellen in Glen Nevis showing them the delights of the bouldering there in crisp autumn sunshine as birch trees around us shed their leaves. We ended the day climbing near a bouldering project of mine beneath pinnacle ridge, looked at for a long time by several aspirant crimping demons. I thought it would be the first Font 8a in the Glen.
They asked if I would be having a go as we were there, but I said no I wasn’t in good shape after the days and nights on the road. But of course, I couldn’t resist and went for a quick shot, if only to confirm why I failed to hold the crux swing so many times before. First shot, not really focused, and my legs almost swung back before my grip gave out. Hmmm, another go was in order with more focus.
This time I felt I had strength in my body for the first time in ages and held the swing and grunted to the top. As with so many projects, they go much easier without the pressure of expectation."
Dave Macleod October 2007
Below: Dave Macleod on his new problem Deep Breath Font8a © Dave Macleod
Source: Dave Macleod's Blog - Original Report / Images
"I had a lovely day climbing with Ruaridh and Ellen in Glen Nevis showing them the delights of the bouldering there in crisp autumn sunshine as birch trees around us shed their leaves. We ended the day climbing near a bouldering project of mine beneath pinnacle ridge, looked at for a long time by several aspirant crimping demons. I thought it would be the first Font 8a in the Glen.
They asked if I would be having a go as we were there, but I said no I wasn’t in good shape after the days and nights on the road. But of course, I couldn’t resist and went for a quick shot, if only to confirm why I failed to hold the crux swing so many times before. First shot, not really focused, and my legs almost swung back before my grip gave out. Hmmm, another go was in order with more focus.
This time I felt I had strength in my body for the first time in ages and held the swing and grunted to the top. As with so many projects, they go much easier without the pressure of expectation."
Dave Macleod October 2007
Below: Dave Macleod on his new problem Deep Breath Font8a © Dave Macleod
Source: Dave Macleod's Blog - Original Report / Images
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