Wales: Louis Armstrong 8a+

Danny Cattell has dispatched an impressive new line running parallel to Rock Atrocity in Parisella’s Cave. Louis Armstrong Font 8a+/V12 starts at the Rock Atrocity diagonal jug, but immediately swerves off right with a violent crossover move to reach some undercuts, which in turn allow a redpoint crux slap out to the Lou Ferrino ramp to be made. A few more punishing moves lead up to the Rock Atrocity finishing slot. Hardcore!

Below: Danny Cattell on his new "cave" problem Louis Armstong Font8a+
© Si Panton


Video Clip: Danny Cattell on his new problem Louis Armstong.
Clip courtesy of Chris Doyle



Source: Si Panton and NorthWalesBouldering.com

Yorkshire: New Problems from Dunning and Katz

With the imminent launch of the new Yorkshire grit bouldering guide, authors (and renowned beasts) Mark Katz have been out mopping up a few nice projects.

At Gorple Mark Katz added a stunning new problem in the place of Problem 3 on Boulder 1, in the Yorkshire Grit guide...

"My new problem is on boulder 3, problem 1 in the old YBG- it's a belter! I've named it Chabal after the French Rugby monster, as both are big, hard and tricky to take down! The problem goes from a sit start and finishes in the big 'hueco' on top. It's involved, with some 'proper' climbing on it- knee bars and heel hooks etc, as well as some horrendous slopers! The rock at Gorple is a little gritty and needs careful cleaning in between attempts. I worked the project off a step ladder prior to my ascent (I got some funny looks from walkers and sheep! as I toiled along the 20 minute walk in with a step ladder sticking out of my pad!). I'm not sure about the grade, as unusually for grit it has alot of different climbing on it and also because of the nature of the rock, maybe Font8a+??" Mark Katz

At Earl Crag Steve Dunning added a cool looking new Font8a prow problem to the Hitchingstone to give No Mercy...

"Managed a couple of new problems at the Hitching stone. This is the large boulder in the field opposite Earl Crag car park. Well worth a visit with a dozen or so good problems. The first problem is one of the best new problems I have done for ages. Unusually for grit its really involved with about a dozen compression moves up a stunning prow." Steve Dunning

Below: Steve Dunning on his new problem No Mercy Font8a © Steve Dunning


Source: Scarpa.co.uk (Katz Blog) & Scarpa.co.uk (Dunning Blog)

Lake District Area: Vector 8a

At Thorn Crag in north Lancashire, I saw two session's worth of effort bare fruit in the shape of a dynamic new problem below the Upper Tier of the main crag. Located on the triangular block in front of the highest point of the crag, Vector (Font8a) is essentially a wild two move expulsion of controlled thrust, setting forth from a frown like set-up of in-cut crimps to a slopey rail 1.5m's away. The distance might not sound particularly far, but the foot holds are POOR and the angle of the rock is such that miscalculations can result in a messy landing.



Source: LakesBloc.co.uk

Wales Tick List Updated

In light of the deluge of hard bloc and traverse problems from the Welsh boys, I have updated the Tick List to include all the new problems.

The updated list can be downloaded, along with all the other areas, to the right of the page, alternatively click the thumbnail below...